Short dress, Madeleine Vionnet, 1927. Silk crepe in a straight shape, round neckline, sleeveless. Bodice and skirt are finely pleated vertically; yoke is finely pleated horizontally. Musée Galliera, Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris
Madeleine Vionnet (French, 1876–1975). Wedding Ensemble. French, 1929. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Gift of Mrs. Ivan Heukelom Winn, 1974 (1974.261a–c)
Bias Cut: originated by Madeleine Vionnet, a technique for cutting to utilize the diagonal direction of the cloth. It gave greater stretch and draped in a way to accentuate the body lines and curves.
Vionnet’s mastery of sinuous line, proportion and, above all, how to dress the liberated and dynamic female body made her one of the most celebrated couturiers of her day, and one of the most influential on over three generations of designers. Cristobal Balenciaga, another master of purist form, considered Vionnet his great mentor and friend.