Draglines at the Back Waist - Add a Yoke or Peplum
Back draglines often occur due to the curvature of the spine or the roundness of the shoulder blades. These natural body lines may be deceiving and could result in fabric excess along the back waist area of your patterns. There are several options for fixing this problem. This is the first one and works well for both knits and wovens.
Lower High Armholes, Darts, Princess Seams, and Waist
Notice the darts, princess line, and waistline positions. If you think those positions are too high along with that armhole, this is the correction for you. You'll need to cut across the front, back, and sleeve areas in the positions shown. After this correction, remeasure your new armholes/sleeves to make sure they will fit together. This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order yours through GinaReneeDesigns.com
Fixing Armhole Gaping – Princess Seams
Struggling with gaping armholes? 🤔 You're not alone! This correction is perfect for styles with princess seams and can also serve as an alternative to a full bust adjustment. Learn how to pin, measure, and adjust for a perfect fit, ensuring your armholes sit close to the body. Get your copy now and discover this technique in The Fitting Book! 📚 #thefittingbook #fashiondesign #fashiondesignerstudent #patternmaking #sewing #sewist #sewingpatterns #sewingprojects #sewingtips #patternadjustment
Fix Hiking Center Back - Styles without a Yoke
When you look at the bottom hem from the side profile view, you notice the center back is hiking up and not leveling with the sides/front. You may also notice vertical draglines. The shoulder slope is the most common reason the CB hikes up and kicks out away from the body. This post is for styles that have no yoke. It’s the most common correction when the back length hikes up. This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link.
Fix Slanted Sleeve Hems
Do this correction when the sleeve hem is too slanted and hiking up/out on the side. You see draglines coming from the sleeve cap going towards the sleeve hem. On long sleeves, it shows as excessive draglines under the arm. When this correction happens, you will likely need to perform other corrections, like ‘across-shoulder too narrow’ or ‘armholes too high’. This way, sleeves won’t become too large.
Fix Significant Armhole Gaping on Raglan Sleeves with Darts
Use this technique if your fabric excess is more than 3/4" (1 cm). This correction is specific to woven shirts with shoulder darts, but it also works for knits with no darts. This option deepens an existing shoulder dart, and it adds fullness to the low point shoulder tip. This is also called a broad shoulder adjustment. Learn more pattern corrections at GinaReneeDesigns.com.
Reducing the Front Width from Across the Armholes
Fix a too-big "across front" area without altering your shoulder fit! Discover step-by-step solutions in The Fitting Book. Click the link to get your copy now! ✂️📚 #thefittingbook #fashiondesign #fashiondesignerstudent #patternmaking #sewing #sewist #sewingpatterns #sewingprojects #sewingtips
Wide Shoulders Corrections – Adjust the Armhole
To fix wide shoulders with an extended armhole seam past the Low Point Shoulder (LPS): pin and measure the excess, mark and cut the bodice pattern, adjust the shoulder slope, and redraw the seam straight. No sleeve adjustment needed. Ensure to correct both front and back bodice pieces. Find more in The Fitting Book. Order now through the link in this post! #thefittingbook #fashiondesign #fashiondesigner #patternmaking #sewing #sewist #sewingpatterns #fashionart #sewingprojects
Small Bust Adjustment - Styles with Side Darts
Most sewing patterns are made with B-cup bust sizes. That means if you have a smaller bust cup size, you’ll likely need to do a small bust adjustment. In this video, you’ll see how to do it when your pattern has side darts. The only downside of it is that it also decreases your waist. If you don’t need the waist/hem to become smaller, you would add on the side seams. This information and more can be found in The Fitting Book. Order your book today through the link.